BBC Late Show 1993

A classic from the archives introduces the Architecture Foundation’s ‘Croydon: The Future’ project, which saw 15 of the leading architects of the day making proposals for the transformation of ‘England’s Alphaville’:

Welcome to SuperCroydon Tour 2010

Welcome to SuperCroydon Tour: Sunday 19th September 2010

A walk around England’s Alphaville via its seven hills.

A Retroactive Manifesto for Croydon-ness

Croydon is unlike anywhere else. It has a character all of its own. But how would you describe that character? What is ‘Croydon-ness’ exactly?

On 1 July 2010, a number of designers currently working in Croydon presented their personal ‘Manifestos for Croydon-ness’ at an event organised as part of the London Festival of Architecture by Croydon Council and supported by CEDC.. The results of the evening’s presentations, discussions and debates were captured in a pamphlet produced live on the night.

A pdf of the pamphlet spreads can be downloaded below.

To produce the pamphlet, print the pdf doubled-sided on A4 paper. Fold the pages to make an A5 pamphlet and staple.

A Retroactive Manifesto for Croydon-ness

Participants:

Vincent Lacovara – Croydon Council and AOC

Finn Williams – Croydon Council and Common Office

David West – Studio Egret West

David Patterson – Make

Richard Lavington – Maccreanor Lavington

Zineb Segrouchni & Fiona Kydd - OKRA

Julian Lewis – East

Thames Town

Surrey Street Croydon: Fruit in the Sky

The Sound of Things to Come. Part I

First published in ‘The Coelacanth Journal: No. 3: The Moderns’ – Summer 2009

The Sound of Things to Come

I

I woke to banging, banging, banging and a dog’s whimpering half-howl.

Emerging from a dream set in a cellar lokal called the Alexander Casino in Christopher Isherwood’s 1930s Berlin, I was – for a while – in my bed in Croydon. I looked up to where the window and the orange glow of the streetlamp should be and there was a patch of half darkness in its place. Sitting up, the distant bangs floated around, stopped for a moment, and then picked up, double time, like a machine-gun rat-a-tat. A second dog echoed a whimpering response.

Looking to the right, I saw a long window where a window shouldn’t be in the grey-blue morning twilight. To the right of the window, and a little lower, in the corner of the room, a small shrine to Jesus and Ganesh twinkled and flickered in the reddish haze of a single incense stick, almost burnt to its end. They seemed happy neighbours, Jesus and Ganesh; Christ with his gruesome sacred heart glowing and beating, and Ganesh with small eyes concentrating and large ears listening to the floating bangs.

His trunk twisted and contorted in time to the drums as they continued their distant rhythmic pounding and my suburban bedroom warped and weirdly wobbled.

On the yellowy pine desk to my left, a big, ugly, dusty, LG Flatron PC monitor – purchased in 2001 from PC World on the Purley Way – melted into the greyness of a simple plastered wall; its flat dark screen turning in to a frameless mirror. The monitor’s tangle of cream-coloured cables strung themselves out and transformed themselves in to a thin metal chain. The chain, fixed to the back of the mirror, hung tight over a small black nail that had been crudely hammered in to the wall.

In front of me, beyond the foothills of my sheet-covered knees and feet, my blonde and white laminate Ikea wardrobe pulsed in time to the drums outside and became a series of heavy vertical shadows belonging to a full-length curtain, spanning the early morning gloom of the room.

High up to my left, on a disappearing shelving system, a 1/43 scale Burago Fiat Cinquecento – in a red, silver and yellow cardboard box – stretched and extruded itself in to a wooden, white-painted doorframe. To its right, a box set of three dark blue WH Smith photograph albums labelled ‘Crystal Palace Park Dinosaurs’, ‘Florence’ and ‘Slyboots’ became a plastic light switch. On and around the switch there were slight shimmers of bluish light reflecting off of small fingerprint traces of grease.

Behind my head, the metal frame of my hospital-style bed-head combined and flattened in to a cold stone window ledge. Awkwardly twisting my head around, I looked at the series of objects on the window ledge. A green plastic comb, a can of Jungle Formula insect repellent, a hair clip, a yellow pencil with a red rubber at the end, two small coins and a copy of The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie. The book had been soaked in Kingfisher and Gin the day before, and smelt yeasty – like a papery bread. Inside the book, Miss Brodie’s gentle pedagogic havoc was damp with alcohol and Maharastran night air. The pages had distorted in to waves of buckled yellow. Tiny insects flitted about the choux pastry edges of the Penguin Modern Classic and skipped across the ruddy cheeks of the two 1930s schoolgirls on the book’s rippled cover. The miniature midges’ syncopated movements mimicked the rhythms floating in through the window from outside. Their tiny, delicate, flecky legs danced.

I wasn’t at home, I sleepily realized. My suburban flat had faded in to a Maharastran guesthouse just as seamlessly as the Alexander Casino had faded in to Croydon.

The drumming continued. Just behind it I could just make out something that sounded like a flute or recorder playing jazzy flurries of notes. The flurries faded in and out, carried by cold morning breezes and drowned out by the spasmodic percussion and the sound of a cock crowing.

Somewhere outside, below the window, footsteps crunched towards the front yard. A pause, followed by the rhythmic squeak, squeak, squeak of a pump being pulled and flushes of water ringing into a metal bucket. I could hear the bracelets on the woman’s arm chink and jangle as she pumped. The tone of the rings went higher with each flush, and I could almost gauge the size of the bucket and guess when it was full. Then a pause, before the same footsteps crunched back past my window and up the lane behind the guesthouse.

Now, a long, low honk sounded across the valley, like the cry of a gigantic whale pushed through an alpine horn. I imagined the ancient beast stranded at the top of one of the mountains surrounding the village, covered in barnacles of jungle vegetation; jabbering monkeys picking at its thick skin. The whale’s deep long call sounded again, shaking the surrounding trees and launching flocks of squarking birds in to the dark early morning sky. The whale honk also seemed to have shaken the drummers too, and they started to attack their skins with an extra burst of furious energy. I wondered whether they were at the top of the mountain too, standing in a big circle around the whale.

The drums and flute-flurries were now accompanied by the single bong of a bell, followed by muffled bursts of strings playing exotic arpeggios and a high female voice singing quietly but piercingly, distorted through crackling electric amplification. The strings and singing lasted a few moments and then stopped, repeating again every half a minute or so.

I ran my hand over the warm range of ripples in the sheets beside me and looked at the slight indentation in the pillow next to mine. At the end of the bed, a dark blue towel was heaped in a gentle mountain. Down to the left, a small puddle and a series of feet-shape pools led across the tiled floor, beyond the curtain, to the wet room. The showerhead dripped into a plastic bucket. I touched the towel with my big toe and felt that it was damp.

Somewhere beyond the floating percussion, flute flurries, squawks, pips and dog whines, I could hear the distant hum and rush of a jet plane flying overhead, maybe on the last leg of a long flight from London to Mumbai. Up there, a passenger sank back in to his economy class chair, head in a limp pillow, blindfold and headphones on, blanket pulled up to his neck, mind fuzzy and mouth sweet from a recent Bloody Mary. Senses dulled, his puffy pink fingers fidgeted and fumbled around in a little silver bag of honey-roasted peanuts as he listened to ‘Perfect Symmetry’ by Keane for the second time in a row.

Down below, the drums and dogs had stopped and had been replaced with a Spem in alium of avian chips and chirps and twitters. These gradually rose from the trees around the village, acquiring layer upon layer of delicate new sound as the sky grew warmer and lighter.

I imagined the morning chorus following the sun around the world like a ripple of sound as I began to drift back to sleep. A sonic Mexican wave of musical cheeps and chatters and twits accompanied me back to the 1930s and the Alexander Casino.

‘I am a Miner Bird,’ I whispered to the bar man.

English Everytown

Shorter version published in BD magazine, 13th November 2009

“The personal feeling and native instinct of me had been fastened irrevocably…under the low red roofs of Croydon…by the cress set rivulets in which the sand danced, and the minnows darted above the springs of Wandel.”

One hundred and fourteen years after Ruskin recalled his formative years, I’m getting off a tram close to those Wandle springs in Croydon’s Old Town, on my way to see a selection of pieces from Croydon Council’s Art Collection at a new exhibition at the Museum of Croydon.

First wandering up Church Street, past the Old Palace, London Piercing Clinic and the Chinese Supermarket, I then negotiate my way through the mobile phone covers, fruit, veg and bustle of Surrey Street Market. Ruskin’s beloved low red roofs are still there, but big-broad-shouldered regeneration projects under construction muscle in to view and hint at an ongoing story of Croydonian ambition.

The exhibition ‘Scene Unseen’ is in the Croydon Clocktower complex. Attached to the 1890s Town Hall, the Clocktower – completed in 1993 – houses one of the UK’s best libraries, the David Lean Arts Cinema, a permanent collection of Chinese pottery and ceramics and the FAT-designed Museum of Croydon. However, despite brimming with brilliant stuff, most of the Clocktower’s wonderful secrets remain unseen, even to many Croydonians.

Scene Unseen aims to reveal some of Croydon’s best-kept secrets. Croydon Council owns over 2000 artworks, gathered since 1890, when pieces were acquired to decorate the new Town Hall. This big Victorian civic investment marked the birth of the County Borough of Croydon; a significant event in the story of the gradual decline in power of Croydon’s Lords of the Manor – the Archbishops of Canterbury – who had their summer seat here.

The exhibition puts a small selection of those 2000 works on public display for the first time since 1988. This effort to make the public’s collection public is to be applauded. These are the people of Croydon’s works of art, on display for free, in a wonderful civic facility.

The pieces range from local scenes by local artists that satisfy local interest, to pieces of international significance by the likes of Max Ernst. Some of the pieces – and the collection as a whole – manage to combine the best of both worlds; revealing truly universal value through the particularly local.

The exhibition is small and simple, arranged over two rooms. The curation here is not world changing and does not aim to challenge. The pieces are simply hung and arranged in to the themes of Landscape, Croydon at War, Buildings, People and Abstract Art. However, the work begins to reveal stronger, more sophisticated themes, the closer one looks and the more one remembers to place the collection in its context.

The majority of the work documents a change in landscape that is particular to Croydon, but which will resonate with any visitor. Carefully reading the series of paintings, drawings, etchings and prints, Croydon becomes a unique microcosm of English social history and urbanism; from medieval feudalism, to post war ‘never-had-it-so-good’ space race pop. The English Everytown. Representative, but unlike anywhere else.

Produced in 1946, ‘Croydon Courageous’ by artist Norman Partridge shows crowds of people being rescued from Croydon bomb sites, with the Parish Church in the centre horizon and those familiar low red roofs present, but blown to bits. Despite being very particular to Croydon, the work manages to perfectly represent the common cultural image of wartime Britain.

Meanwhile, the portrait of black Croydon composer Samuel Coleridge-Taylor by Stanmore Gibbs and two arresting pieces by Bengali mystic, writer, composer and social reformer, Rabindranath Tagore, reveal the complexities of Britain’s attitude to race and the wider implications of Empire. Tagore rejected his knighthood in 1919 as a protest against the Jalianwalabag Massacre.

In the 1960s – acting with what appears to be remarkable civic foresight – Croydon Council’s Education Department collected a series of pieces by contemporary artists that constitute the real surprise of the show. On display here are pieces by Allen Jones and Bridget Riley – both of whom taught at Croydon’s Art School – along with a delicious screenprint by Patrick Caulfield and works by Henry Moore, John Hoyland and Max Ernst. As a Croydon resident, I feel quite chuffed that I own these.

Filling the galleries with the exuberant sounds of Surrey Harmony Barber Shop Choir and the North Wood Morris, a film made by contemporary students of Croydon College Room aims to give the show a contemporary context and reveal a thriving local creative scene. It focuses on groups who continue the legacy of the Croydon Art Society, which is apparently the oldest art society in England. But one suspects that far more interesting creative activity is happening in the suburb that inspired the punk aesthetic and the dub-step sound.

So, in order to make the most of this small exhibition, to contextualize Everytown, and to seek the real Scene Unseen, I suggest you wander the streets of Croydon. Push your way through Surrey Street Market, explore the Whitgift Centre, tram-whizz past the Ikea Chimneys on Purley Way and loop around Croydon’s Old and New Towns. Climb to the top of a multi-storey car park and view the low red roofs, concrete office blocks, out-of-town sheds and suburban treetops. Recall Ruskin and listen to the punky echoes in Malcolm McClaren:

Croydon will always be remembered [for the] rites of passage of my life – the constant roaming at night through its market streets and thereafter navigating those deep leafy suburbs into the countryside beyond – spending hours looking out of Croydon’s art school windows observing and then struggling to come to terms with these giant triffids of buildings that rise up and spread themselves all along East Croydon’s path, using charcoal pencil and anything close to hand, I drew and drew and drew”.